Fine-dining Indian restaurant Nadodi shines the spotlight on the many-layered cuisines of South India, and presents them with contemporary panache.
One of the most difficult things about elevating any cuisine into the realms of fine dining is the scepticism, disdain and sometimes affront that it triggers; this comes more often than not from those who grew up on it. This is especially so for those of more humble, or “ethnic”, origins; just ask Sricharan Venkatesh, Chef de Cuisine at Kuala Lumpur’s progressive fine-dining restaurant Nadodi.
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (CNN) — Once you let the meaning of the word simmer in your mind for a while, you’ll realize Indian restaurant Nadodi could have no better name.
A word that translates to “nomad” in a couple of South Indian languages, it harks to the journey the people of that region took to faraway lands, such as Malaysia, where this eatery is located.
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“They had taken my Dosa and made it Thosai. Paratha became Roti Canai, and Meen Thala became Fish Head Curry,” spewed Brand Director Kartik Kumar as he described his culinary revelations upon first moving to Kuala Lumpur. I detected a faint disdain in his voice—my mind painting images of stupefied and befuddled looks among the chaos of a local mamak store in the glory of its suppertime rush.
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Nomadic South Indian cuisine takes the limelight at this 68-seater, whose name translates into ‘wanderer’ in Malayalam and Tamil. From its home base in the shadow of Kuala Lumpur’s twin Petronas Towers, the restaurant invites diners to embark on an exploratory journey, by way of a 15-course gastronomic meander through Tamil Nadu, Sri Lanka and Kerala, with beautifully hand-drawn menus as handy roadmaps for the expedition ahead.
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